A warping trapeze is a great way to go if you want to put on longer warps perfectly, and all by yourself. If you have a “springy” warp such as linen or the hemp in the photos here, a trapeze keeps tension at all times on the warp and prevents snarls.
The trapeze in the photo consists of: two 1×2’s 8 ft. long, two very smooth wooden dowels or other kind of smooth rod [one top one and one bottom one], 4 clamps [may need more – depending], and two small wood supports for the bottom.
Each of the 8 foot trapeze frames are clamped to the loom and one smooth rod is inserted through holes drilled into the frames. Drill several holes at differing heights, both for shorter warps and to move the warps lower as wrapping onto the back beam progresses.
The second photo shows the bottom rod. It is not totally necessary, but does give extra distance for longer warps. This bottom rod sits in small pieces of wood which in turn, are also clamped to the loom itself.
To set up for beaming: 1. Keep the cross still tied in place and secure the warp to the back beam. 2. Drape the warp bouts over the loom and the trapeze. 3. Add the weights to keep the warp secure
Now that there is tension on the warp: 4. Insert the lease sticks into the cross, and remove the ties holding the cross in place. In the photo, the lease sticks are being held by “Angel Wings” securely clamped to the frame of the loom. 5. Divide the warp onto your raddle. Spread the warp evenly. 6. Adjust the amount of weight you need and begin beaming.
Photo #3 shows the weights attached to the bouts of warp. Determine how much weight you need by how easy it is to beam. If the back beam is too hard to turn, you have too much weight – it could result in broken threads.
As your warp gets shorter, readjust where the warp is as it will eventually be too short to stay on the trapeze.
If you have a very long warp, the weights will not be at the ends of the bouts, but secured tightly throughout as you beam on.
The last photo shows the fine hemp warp evenly distributed on the raddle